May 26 until? Troubles with Bubbles.
The picture sums it up. Cozied up at White’s on the Hudson in the hamlet of New Hamburg, NY. We’ll see how long repairs take!
May 22 – 24 – Muhheakantuck, Part I
I’ve been known to say that there is no such thing as bad weather – just bad clothes. But these last few days have called this into question. Cold heavy rain and a stiff Easterly breeze discourage us from venturing outside of our cozy water-borne Winnebago. Nonetheless we have made our way up the Hudson as far as Newburgh, NY. Leaving our anchorage close to the GW bridge, we had no destination in mind. Our first day traveling north featured clear blue skies and took us through awesome geology born of Triassic tectonic violence; igneous intrusion and the busting apart of Pangea. This is the Pallisades Sill which today provides a home for soaring Peregrine Falcons, a master class in geology, and an opportunity to reflect on the arc of time.
Because the Hudson is stingy with anchoring locations, we welcomed the chance to tuck in out of the breeze and current at the town of Verplanck. The big river narrows here with Verplanck to the East and Stony Point to the West. During the Revolution, the Continental and French armies used this area as a ferry to get across the Hudson without intervention from British forces established in NYC. We launched our dinghy to walk around the town and to a state park where we could climb the bluffs overlooking our anchorage.
Rain arrived in the morning and so did engine trouble. Seems our Westerbeke 100 was doing something inappropriate with its coolant – as in losing it. So, we top off the engine and move gently upriver with a plan to make the 18 miles to Newburgh, NY where we will meet our friends Pat, Ingrid and our pup Spot. And hopefully find a mechanic.
This part of the river is nearly mystical in its beauty. We rounded the bend at Peekskill and sailed into the deep gorge of Bear Mountain. Anthony’s Nose glowered down as we continued through West Point, Garrison, Worlds End and Cold Spring. This is the deepest part of the Hudson at 275 ft where revolutionary troops strung chains across to protect from the advancing British. The ramparts of Storm King and Breakneck Point along with Bannerman’s Castle mark the exit from the Hudson Highlands and as the river widened to Newburgh Bay, we felt we were leaving a time gone by. The first people who lived along the Hudson– The Lanape – named the river Muhheakantuck – the river that flows both ways. And it does. The tide changes as we pull to the dock in Newburgh. Don made contact with a mechanic, and we will see what’s next!
May 21 – The Big Apple
We dropped our lines at sunup in Point Pleasant Beach and were treated to an athletic exit from the Manasquan inlet. Just a tiny bit of clean up needed, no injuries. Once ocean bound, we settled on a northerly course along the beach with a Southwest swell and freshening North wind. Rounding Sandy Hook and approaching the Verrazzano Narrows, marine traffic picked up as did the wind, chop and rain. NY Harbor felt like a video game. Recall the AIS that was so helpful when we left Cape May in the dark, was now on overload, broadcasting our impending doom from all directions at once: ferries, tour boats, big ships, little ships, tugs, barges, a bunch of sodden tourists on a bedraggled, bobbing schooner – what a show. We approached the battery and took in Lady Liberty off our port – it seemed to us she was standing in a veil of tears, but standing hopeful, nonetheless. Leaving the battery and continuing up into the Hudson, we relax and enjoy the ride with views of Riverside Park, the Soldiers and Sailors Memorial, Columbia University, the Chelsea Docks etc. Passing under the George Washington Bridge, we imagine the young Americans hunkered down in stockade forts (Washington and Lee) atop these cliffs during the revolutionary war. They lost the battle for these cliff tops but survived to carry on the fight. We dropped our hook just North of the bridge on the West side of the river. A room with a million-dollar view: the bridge and skyline downstream, the cliffs up the Hudson upstream. And a quick fun fact sent by friend and sturgeon biologist Dr. Dewayne Fox. There is a little red lighthouse (Jeffery’s Hook Lighthouse) under the GW Bridge on the East side. It was the inspiration for the kid’s book The Little Red Lighthouse and the Great Gray Bridge where one theme of the story is SMALL CAN BE MIGHTY. Which is pretty much how we are feeling about our little boat just now.
May 18 to 21 – Pt. Pleasant Beach, NJ.
It took us a moment to catch on; we entered Manasquan inlet on May 18, but the town where we landed was not Manasquan, but Point Pleasant Beach, NJ. And what a fabulous town it is. We anchored at the side of the channel for the first night then moved to a slip at Captain Bill’s right inside the inlet, nestled among a substantial commercial and party-boat fishing fleet. We stepped ashore for the first time since we left Shady Side; walked the Boardwalk and had a delicious dinner at the Shrimp Box. This is a town that clearly lives by and from the sea. It is also a town that had the air of a racehorse ready to burst from the party gate. As confirmed by an employee at the local Fisherman’s Supply store, the town would be all consumed by beach revelers beginning Friday of Memorial Day weekend.
We were also treated to a visit from my friend and fisheries colleague Heather Corbett. She and I worked together for years as fisheries biologists and managers. As only Heather can do, she made sure we felt welcome to the Jersey Shore. Thanks to her, we had the support of Captain Eddie Yates in Barnegat Light – worrying for us and advising us on weather/inlet conditions. Heather also connected us with the Owner and Captain of the deep-sea party-boat Gambler just a few slips down from us in Point Pleasant Beach. We caught up with the Gambler crew Wednesday morning. Captain Jeff Melto has a podcast you can find on Spotify: Point Pleasant Deep Sea Fishing Report. As Jeff says, he goes ‘raw dog’ and records from the wheelhouse on fishing conditions and happenings. Heads up for language if you have little ones listening, but it is worth tuning in- Jeff has an incredible amount of fishing knowledge. We met Heather Wednesday afternoon for a beverage on board and then a late lunch at Reds Lobster Pot. Heavy weather arrived Wednesday night with grim forecasts for building seas into the weekend forcing our decision to leave Point Pleasant at daybreak May 21 to catch a brief weather window for outside transit to NYC.
.
May 18 – Cape May to Manasquan, NJ
We left Cape May – exiting the east inlet directly to the ocean – at about 430 am. It was pitch dark. Hence the adrenaline rush when our AIS alarm lit up an incoming fishing vessel that seemed to appear from nowhere. But the sun rose and brought our spirits along with it. We turned North with Atlantic City in mind, but the weather forecast moderated and when we reached the turn for AC, we decided to go the additional 54 miles to Manasquan. We could not have asked for better conditions as we rolled along with a gentle Southwest wind and Easterly swell. The sea, like a campfire pulls at some deep string in the human psyche. It is hypnotic, beautiful and potentially dangerous. Today it was all about beautiful. Tonight, after a 14 hour run, we are anchored in the busy port of Manasquan. We will likely hang here a couple of days.
May 16 – West River in our Wake
The tide came for us right on time, allowing a 5:33am depart. Exited Pairish Creek, blew the horns to bid farewell to sleepy Deadwood and intrepid friends on the dock, then turned our tail to head for the open Bay.
If all goes right, it will be several years before Nereus comes home to Shady Side.
We took in a last view of the Bay Bridge – rolling at 8 knots with the incoming tide. Crossing the Delaware state line, we hoisted our Great Loop Flag – gifted to us by friends who found it in an antique shop – we fly it with pride!
We end the day on Delaware Bay – anchored behind Reedy Island jetty. Our serene transit became a bit fierce as we turned the corner down Delaware Bay. Our speed over ground (SOG) reached 9 kt at times in a confused wind-against-tide sea. Recall, we are a 7 kt boat but Nereus kicked it in and rode a brisk outgoing tide while powering into a strong Southerly breeze and hefty chop. We are happy to report that our secure for sea protocol was mostly successful. This was a gentle opportunity to practice for heavy weather. And now we rest – watching the ships beyond the breakwater and the cooling tower of the Salem Nuclear Plant off the port side and Augustine Beach to starboard. Ahh – delightful Delaware Bay!
May 15, 2026 – Move in Day
To start, we are hard aground in our slip.
No doubt the tide will return to take us out. In the meantime, we’ll just keep adding weight.
Bikes up, the settee looks like some weird door prize display, and I did stow away my snare drum and sticks – just because.
Faith, Erich and Evan stopped by for a round of bubbly.
We are graced with beautiful sunset number one.
Don assumes the yoga position ‘ENGINE ROOM’ doing final checks and sets coffee for morning.
LETS GO!
Wow great progress! Good luck with your ocean day en la manana!
Don, so cool that you and Lynn are doing the great loop! Good luck on your journey and I will keep an eye on you guys as you move along on your journey.
Looks like you’re past the ocean phase up into lower New York bay then presumably north up the Hudson River. Seems like good progress. Best of luck and smooth sailing.
Such amazing progress in your first week! Glad to follow your journey here. Wishing you continued smooth passage and good fortune.
Barnegat! My fave NJ stomping grounds. Looks like an amazing journey so far. Can’t wait to see where you head next!
Amazing and inspiring adventure!! Really enjoying your letters and photographs!!